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Re: [BKARTS] Whoever you are, thank you!
Jet,
The leather you're using is different than my typical stock but the
problem you're describing is very much like what I experienced with my
first efforts. You will find the advice of the group to me on this
problem in the archives. I'll tell you what the results were for me and
how I changed my practices.
I am using a quikprint. I've taken the original grid printed plastic
off the metal bed because the screws that held it in place were round
head and jeopardized my work and interfered with modifications. I made
removable cover for the metal table. My first version was wood, a
horizontal wood panel with a wooden lip on the bottom of one side. My
newer version is plexiglass, 3/8" thick with two plex lips, on the
bottom sides of the horizontal panel. Both these removable tables (I
believe William Minter calls this a force, have to look that up) serve
the same purpose; to give a surface to attach the work to which can be
removed and re-inserted in the machine precisely. These table both
align to the side surface of the original table and push all the way
back to the vertical post at the back of my quikprint.
Now for the method.
My gold foil is happiest at about 250°. I attach my work to the
removable table using tape or other non-destructive, removable methods.
Hit the leather with the hot die or type but no foil. This creates a
clear, well established bed for the foil. Hit the impression again
using the foil very quickly and with slightly more force. Hit the
impression quickly again with no foil, Again with foil, and again with
no foil. At the temperatures you mention, 350-400, the second and last
no foil hits would be disaster given the foil I use. Without the
backing to protect it, the foil would fuse to the die or type and be
lifted off the leather in irregular patches.
The removable table let's me take the work out to examine the results
as I progress and to put the piece back in for touch-up if necessary.
I still see much room for improvement in my skill with embossing, foil
and gold however these techniques have greatly improved my results and
reliability.
Don Drake
Dreaming Mind
ddrake@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
IM: stitchbyhand
http://www.dreamingmind.com
http://www.hughstump.com
(510) 537-9711
On Jun 26, 2004, at 10:05 AM, Jet Wimp wrote:
Dear booklovers:
I have been purchasing leathers at auction. These are brilliantly
colored skins (kid, goat, etc.), and very smooth, almost like patent
leather. However, they do not take hot stamping. The letters come out
are broken and incomplete, no matter what the temperature of the type
(I've used gold foil and 350-400 degrees.)
Someone on this list suggested sometime ago that to prep smooth
leathers, you should use ammonia. I wipe the leathers gently with a
weak
(1:4) solution of ammonia and let them dry. The difference this makes
is
astounding. The leathers so treated take the type very well. Further,
such a weak solution doesn't afect the appearance of the skins.
Thanks,
Jet
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